Wednesday, July 26, 2006

The Misunderstood virtues of Skate

Our hometown has two delicacies that it is famous for: Sabol Nokchi – live Octopus and Skate. I still haven’t eaten the live octopus, but probably will at some point. However, I have had the Skate (a type of manta ray) and still have to wonder why anyone would ever eat it by choice. Skate is an unbelievably cartilagey fish, pink to red in colour.
Eat me! I'm horrible!
Manta rays in general are filled with Urea when alive, but once dead, that Urea converts to Ammonia.


Now, of course Rays or Skate is eaten all over the world, so that isn't so uncommon. It is cooked and blackened and is supposed to be quite palatable. In Korea, they eat it raw... so full on cartilage texture, full on Ammonia taste. And as the foreigner, it's your job to eat as much of it as possible.

Shivers run up my spine every time it shows up unexpectedly on the dinner table!
Look at all that delicious skate! Eat um up!

Monday, July 24, 2006

Life is a beach... at least it was supposed to be

Not a funny joke!Before coming to Korea, we were told that Mokpo, our new home city, had a big glorious beach. This was all Steph needed, and her heart was set. Unfortunately, the beach fell dramatically short of its hoopla (damn you Mr. Shane) and has left us (well, Steph, with me in toe) looking for a beach near our hometown.

Last weekend we headed to Jindo, home of the Jindo breed of dog (The type you think about when people mention Korea) and our first beach attempt. The sky was black the whole day (the whole weekend) but the beach was nice (Copy and paste these coordinates into Google Earth 434°26'4.59"N 126°21'17.98"E) even though it turned too cool to sit out on it. At low tide, the sea parts and you can walk on the seabed, a mile out to an island off the coast. (Copy and paste these coordinates into Google Earth 434°25'21.20"N 126°20'56.17"E) Neatish. Not everything we (she) was hoping for!

This weekend we tried Wedaldo (Copy and paste these coordinates into Google Earth 434°46'52.49"N 126°17'37.25"E), a small island that is being developed 50 minutes from Mokpo by ferry. $7 was all the ferry cost for a return ticket. We were surprised by the number of Koreans at the Island (especially those that felt the need to bring their cars since the island was really too small to drive around) and were amazed by the good sized water playground area that was obviously just put in.

Our Brit contingent, Hugh and Anoushka, accompanied us, and we headed to the beach. Steph, Anoushka and the Hugh-meister!
After picking up some Raman noodles for lunch, a couple of Korean groups stopped by and gave us half a watermelon and 4 cokes. Just another example of Korean kindness! The quiet beach area opposite the kiddies water playlandWe swam in the 3-foot deep "designated swimming area" for a while and basked a little longer before we were rocked by an unimaginable disaster! Out of the public bathrooms came Hugh, a gash over his eye from an apparent animal attack! Well... it wasn't really a gash, and.. the attack came from an unidentified large bug teamed with a strategically placed shelf... but it definitely was unimaginable! Poor Hugh!

The day ended shortly after that, and Hugh was taken to the ER where he was fixed up nicely. He miraculasly bounced back enough to join us for a drink later that night. What a trooper!

Wednesday, July 19, 2006

The clinic

As some of you know, my back has been on the DL the past week. Throw in a cough that has been lingering for 3 weeks and I had to do something. So, Tuesday after school, I finally threw caution into the wind and went to a clinic on the way home. My co-teacher was happy to let me go on my own, but snuck in a scary "Good luck" as I left her sight.

Armed with my Korean national health card, I headed for the nearest local clinic. I walked in, and quite dramatically, made convincing gestures indicating some bad back spasms and a nasty cough – both were heavily embellished. The receptionists politely motioned over to the wall collage of dental surgeries, stood up and walked me across the hall to the clinic I was looking for.

Once in, I was hit with the warm breath of 90% humidity and no Air conditioning. In Korea, you are either greeted with businesses having huge AC units struggling to cool a store that has all its doors and windows open (most cases - clearly to save people from “fan-death") or a total lack of AC at all. I was quickly received and ushered into the doctor’s office.

The big, well-furnished office accommodated man in scrubs, seemingly in his early 40’s who spoke enough English to get an idea of what I wanted. He quickly wrote down the words “Back” and “Cough” (the latter would never be mentioned again or acted on). I asked for a massage for my back (because I heard you could get that here) and he quickly said “No massage”.

Ok then.

Nice little skewersHe reached over onto his desk and grabbed two small spears in plastic sheaths while calling for his assistant to bring some alcohol. He then casually pushed them into the meat of my left palm, and asked me if the pain in my upper right back area was “better”. I told him not really. He proceeded to push the pins further into my palm, all the time rotating them like a watch-smith winding a wristwatch and regularly looking up to see my reaction. Nothing but a gross feeling that the needles were touching bone.

I was then whisked away onto one of 20 marble examination tables. The treatment room was very clean, modern and professional looking. The assistant placed, what looked like electrical-stimulation (e-stim) pads on the stiff part of my back. The pads not only gave out a pretty solid shock, but also kneaded my back with invisible fingers, while the marble table melted me down with a ferocious heat. After 20 minutes of kneading and shocking, the assistant flipped me over, and the doctor returned to insert 4 new skewers into my leg and back. The ones in my hand were removed and an electric current was hooked up to the skewers in my back. All this time, I have an idea, but really don’t know what is going on.

The third stage had me get up, sit on the edge of the table, and remove the spears. Behind me, I could hear them adding glass suction devices onto my tight back, and quickly pump the air out of them to create a vacuum. Oh yeah, that feels good!Between “glass sucker” 2 and 3, I thought I felt some light cutting or slicing of an area of my back... and then a “sucker”was quickly placed right over that area. Who could be sure? Before I knew it, there were 7 suckers on my back and I was left for 20 more minutes.

It wasn’t until they started removing the suction vessels and whiping me down with alcohol that I could see that they had sliced and bled me! Nothing scaring, but a little unnerving none the less. The Suckers left me with a nice bit of bruising.

They finished me off (almost literally) on an automated massage table (they had a whole assortment of them) that massaged and heated you from inside the table. It felt like piano hammers firing in a wildly synchronous and relaxing pattern. An hour and a half later after I arrived, I was walking home; a little less innocent that earlier that day, and with the marks to prove it.
I was later told that this was a Naturopathy clinic... figures.

After all that... the back feels a little better... and the total bill came to $5.
Not bad, and it makes for a good story.

Tuesday, July 18, 2006

Uncle Steve's Story Time - Episode 3

Sit close children... I have a tale to tell...I've learned a few things during my stay in Korea, perhaps my favourite is how to accept your role as a local celebrity. I will try to outline a few of the responsibilities that local celebrities have and how you apply these responsibilities to your local community to ensure that their ongoing love affair with you rolls on for at least another weekend.

1. During local festivals, participate in any type of ribbon cutting ceremony. Official mascotts of the mud festival This can be accomplished very easily by standing in the way of a cameraman, getting the attention of a local dignitary and motioning to him that you should be a part of said ceremony. Everyone is happy with the outcome.

2. Conduct television interviews with the utmost sincerity. Sometimes this is more difficult than it should seem. Please learn from my experience and don't suggest that you thought Koreans were boring but a Mud Festival makes them seem fun. It's not a local celebrity's responsibility to criticize, we are there for positive P.R only. Also, make sure that you know the station that is interviewing you. Few things annoy television reporters more than a drunken local celebrity who seems intent on saying "OCN, Number One Channel", even though the microphone is clearly marked MBC.

Don't try this at home kiddies... 3. Involve locals in your own activities and traditions. Koreans are very interested in what their local celebrity likes to do, they like it even more when we involve them in said activity. If you decide to borrow a young lady's umbrella, open it and dance around the street, a good local celebrity would invite the young lady to dance with them. After the giddy teen runs off with her hands covering her face with sheer excitement, it is the local celebrity's responsibility to show gratitude. An acceptable display of appreciation is to approach the nearest car, reach in and start honking the horn repeatedly, and shout kamsahamida (thank you) over and over.

This is a good start. In the interest of Brent's blog, I will add more at a later time. Until next time...

Sunday, July 16, 2006

Le Tour

Now, it may be over by the time this post reaches you, but one of the most amazing sporting events run today, is the Tour de France.

Unfortunately in recent weeks, like pretty much every professional sport, Cycling has experienced widespread allegations of doping, with sentencing yet to be laid down. Recently, as many as 32 active riders have been associated with a Spanish doping ring, including the would-be favourite of this year's Tour; Jan Ullrich. Lance Armstrong is still under suspicion.

This dog has been following the sport for many years now, and like the other professional sports; like Baseball, Football and Basketball, the governing body has done as little as possible to reign in this tarnishing issue to re-instill confidence in the purity of the sport. This is in part why the American government is forcing the big pro sports' hand... because they weren't smart enough to do it themselves.

Enough of that... the Tour itself is quite unbelievable, consisting of 20 stages throughout France. Many movies have been made, including "Hell on Wheels" which I have seen. Some of the falls are pretty bad, but each rider expects one of two bad falls during the race. Pretty gross if you ask me.
Thick yellow lines along the border are the stagesYou can see the race route at Le Tour de France website or actually download the race route with Google Earth - a great way to really feel the altitudes and scale of the race. The Outdoor Life Network has some awesome coverage of the event. It's worth watching a stage or two!

In other news
  • My back is feeling a fair bit better.
  • After eating my way out of Canada, I'm back down to my proper weight (from 235lbs down to 225lbs).
  • We are taking it easy this long weekend (Korean Independance day from the Japanese in 1945)
  • Thursday, July 13, 2006

    My 15 minute walk...

    For a lack of news this week, I'm going to rant on about my awesome walk to school. Rather than the 12 minute drive to work I had back in Canada, now I walk 5 minutes with Steph to work before I turn right into a large group of farming plots that lie smack dab in the middle of old downtown. The old "agimas" farm the land and rotate through onions, carrots, lettuce and garlic, depending on the season.

    For some reason, the city has decided to put a brand new 4 lane street through the farm land... and it goes absolutely nowhere. Nice planning boys!
    Four lane to nowhere...I take a left off the 4 laner...

    ...and to your left, a big onion feild
    duck between some houses, and up this path...

    slip between some houses... ...and through this spooky path...










    ... when I reach another 2 lane "Nowhere road" that curls around a separate neighbourhood and down the hill to my school. I dart down a side street and take a left. It's a nice morning walk, with a surprising number of regulars, and by the time I'm at school I'm nicely awake.
    Not bad at all!

    Monday, July 10, 2006

    Typhooey!

    Wussy storm!
    After warnings of 150-250mm of rain and a great deal of fanfare and anticipation, typhoon Ewiniar went out with a wimper. A couple of rattling windows, 5-20mm of rain and a taxi ride to school were the extent of the inconvenience that we faced during Ewiniar’s wrath!!!
    Boo Mother Nature, boo!

    In an update, the south eastern parts of South Korea weren't so lucky

    Sunday, July 09, 2006

    Another awesome weekend!

    I'm not sure why, but every weekend, it seems we try to jam too much fun into 2 little days. This weekend was definitely no exception.

    Our friend from Suncheon, Jen, came down with her puppy, Paddy! Jen and Paddy have only 3 weeks left in Korea before they head home to BC.

    Leah and MaxAfter showing Jen the regular stops on the Mokpo tour, we hooked up with Leah, Max and Warren to celebrate Leah's birthday. They introduced us to two awesome Brits they had met a couple of weeks back; Hugh and Anoushka.

    After a celebratory "Beck seju" cheers, we headed out to a fine Italian restaurant in the heart of Mokpo.

    The restaurant prices were ranged from $10 for a pasta dish or $14 for an authentic italian pizza (at least authentic by Canadian standards). Max had brought 2 birthday cakes (delicious) for Leah. What a guy! From there we headed to the Wabar and New York to continue celebrating birthdays and good people.
    Jen and StephLeah in all her glory!Hugh and Anoushka

    Saturday, July 08, 2006

    Typhoon Ewiniar is coming!!!!

    Since we got here, we've been amazed by the precautions Koreans take against typhoons. Steph has been telling the Koreans that she can't wait to experience her first storm... they all, in turn, look at her with some disbelief.

    Looks like Steph may have her wish... As of Saturday morning, Typhoon Ewiniar is on a collision course with Mokpo on Monday! Batten down the hatches!!!

    You can check out the path of our little baby here, and that of any other storms in the area at SuperTyphoon.com (cool name!)

    Classic Korean!

    Booby!

    This is a student's workbook, one piece of a whole line of "Booby-ware".

    The caption reads:
    "Booby is a dog who has a warm heart and cares for others. He smiles all the time and makes his friends happy"

    Classic!

    Thursday, July 06, 2006

    Silly Japanese...

    And we thought Montreal's "Just for laughs" was funny.

    Check out this skit.

    Wednesday, July 05, 2006

    Winner!

    In the same batch that I received the parcel below from my parents, I also got my first letter from a friend from home: The beautiful, the lovely, and now far and away my most favourite friend; Kate "I'm both smart and beautiful" Watson. What do we have for our winner? A lovely package will be greeting Kate at her door in the next couple of weeks.

    Thanks Kate! You just made me feel super loved!

    Tuesday, July 04, 2006

    The Mail is here!

    Sweet gold!I've just received an amazing parcel of wicked stuff from my Parents!!! It was nicely jammed and crammed into the mail slot! Thanks for the care Korea Post! The package included Tim Hortons coffee (delicious), stickers and charms for my rotten kids, handi wipes for "at school emergencies" and some new shoe laces because you can't find them here unless you buy a new pair of shoes.

    You rock DAD!!! This stuff is worth it's weight in gold here!

    Sunday, July 02, 2006

    Happy Canada day, eh!

    139 years old and she's still looking great!

    Sometimes it does take a trip around the world to bring out a person's patriotism. This was never so evident this weekend when Canadian teachers (and Aussies and Brits) from all over Southern Korea converged on Suncheon to Celebrate July 1st and Canada Day.
    Our solid core group from the Gwangju orientation including Virginia, Steve, Max, Stuart, Bryce, Lana, Steph and I were all present with a number of new friends including April and Jen to drink sing and party in honour of our beloved country.
    Lana, Brent and Max

    We all truly miss the Great White North

    Steph, Virginia, Jen, April, Lana, My chin & Max's eye!
    Virginia and Jen have two great posts to commemorate the night too. They are the coolest!
    April and Uncle Steve